Ein Kleine Nachtfahr
“So what is Amani Na Miti? Is it a village or somewhere with a proper hotel?” I asked.
“It’s a spot in a forest,” Egg
replied. “The punchline to a joke that was not funny even before
it was translated through three different languages.”
“Oh, no shower, then.” I sighed.
From the time we had landing in Nairobi
I had realised that my perceptions of Africa were too much swayed by
wildlife documentaries from the Serengeti to be anything approaching
realistic. The city had scared me, too busy, too foreign, too far
away from home for my sensibilities that were seeming more provincial
by the day. Outside the city things were worse, people stared
because we were different and it had taken me a while to work out it
was nothing approaching racism, just curiosity.
“How come you never mentioned
Machwa?” I asked.
“She’s my half-sister from Mother’s
wild days, I’ve only actually met her a handful of times,” Egg
explained. “I last saw her about ten years ago, she got into a
fight with Aphelia, but we managed to separate them before the
lightning and meteors hit.”
Conversely, Egg had taken it all in his
stride, drinking in the differences and thriving on them. He had
borrowed the four-wheel drive truck from one of Bracken’s business contacts, filled it
with supplies from local stores and we had set out as though it were
a quick trip to the seaside. It had taken us one day to leave the
paved roads behind. When I objected to setting out into the wilds he
had offered to turn around and take me back to the city, so I had
steeled myself and told myself it was an adventure, something to make
Janet’s much vaunted visit to Florida seem tame.
“Do you really know where Amani Na
Miti is?” I asked.
“Yes, I spent the summer holidays
there once,” Egg replied. “I think Mother was on the run from
Interpol, but I was too young to understand that completely.”
Using snippets of different languages,
hand signals and occasionally outright bribes, Egg had obtained fuel,
services, accommodation and directions. I asked him why he did not
just use a map, but he had explained that Amani Na Miti was not on
the map and so we needed to get as far off it as we could. Which
made as much sense as ever.
“I thought we’d see more animals,”
I commented.
“There’s some chickens and a cow,”
Egg said.
“I meant exotic animals, that’s
just someone’s farm,” I told him.
“That cow’s pretty odd looking,”
he said.
Egg had told me that we might have to
rough it and had given me the option of flying straight home from
Florence, but it was not until I was several days without a proper
shower that I worked out the prospect of seeing wild elephants did
not really balance out the hardships. Bumping along rutted dirt
roads all day was not living up to the romantic level set by our
Italian jaunt and I still had not seen an elephant.
“Look! Gazelles,” said Egg. “Or
at least some sort of deer with funny head spikes.”
“You're no Attenborough,” I told
him.
“And here, in their natural
surroundings, we have the lesser mottled, pointy-headed, bouncing
deer, ever alert for tourists and spontaneous photo opportunities.”
Egg gave his best, but poor attempt at nature documentary
voice-over.
On
the forth day he pulled off the main track and took us down something
that was more of an impression that someone had been along this way
once before than an actual path. We stopped early and he cooked a
meal of rice and local vegetables under a mosquito net hung between
the truck and a tree. He lit a single candle and we watched the sun
go down through the gauze. Even though the air was cooling quickly,
he was sweating.
“We're
nearly there,” he said. “When the sun goes below the horizon we
should have about quarter of an hour before the full moon rises and
we need to make the most of it.”
“Make
the most of what?” I asked.
“The
near complete darkness,” he said. “Let's pack up.”
We
quickly dismantled out makeshift dining area and got back into the
truck. It was then I realised I had no idea what he was planning.
He started the engine.
“Shouldn't
you put the lights on?” I asked. “Come to think of it, why not
wait until the moon is up, it would be easier to see.”
“The
idea is that you can't see anything.” He released the handbrake
and we set off.
“That's
not a good idea,” I told him.
“If
you don't know something's there then you can't run into it” We
were picking up speed alarmingly, there were no outside visual clues,
but I could tell by the engine noise and the way the truck was
shaking on the rough surface.
“That's
nonsense.” My voice rose in pitch as my terror increased. “If I
turn the lights off at home I still walk into the sofa.”
“But
you know that's there, think of all the things you manage to walk
through,” he said.
“Egg,
this is madness! You're going to kill us!” I cried, on the edge
of a scream.
I
hung onto the seat, fearing that every lurch would mean a fatal
collision. Egg had a look of total concentration, sweat beading on
his wrinkled forehead.
“Nearly,
nearly...” he chanted to himself.
I
closed my eyes. It changed nothing but it allowed me to get a grip
on my breathing and then my hysteria. I still had enough wits to
notice we were not dead, the ground felt smoother under the wheels,
smoother than any track we had driven in the last couple of days. I
could almost fool myself into thinking we were just travelling along
a normal road. I kept my eyes closed.
Suddenly
Egg slammed on the brakes, the truck slewed slightly as it came to a
halt. I opened my eyes. Egg was leaning back in his seat, panting.
Gradually a combination of increasing light and my vision adapting
brought me an awareness of our surroundings.